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Freshness in Cab Franc

When I was recently in France, I had the pleasure of visiting two of the Loire Valley’s red wine growing regions, Bourgueil and Chinon. Both regions produce wine from the red grape Cabernet Franc. Cabernet Franc is one of the five traditionally blended red varietals in Bordeaux along with the main two, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. Cabernet Franc is lighter than Cabernet Sauvignon and has some very distinct peppery aromas. Up North in the Loire, Cab Franc has a special freshness and acidity that the cooler climate provides. These wines are easily approachable at a young age and pair extremely well with food due to their great acidity.

On a rainy last day of harvest I arrived at Nau Fréres, a small producer in Bourgueil. They produce about 2,500 cases of wine yearly from 30 year old Cabernet Franc vines. The man behind the wines is Abel Nau. After greeting Abel and trying some tank samples, he hurried outside to greet the last truck of grapes to be dumped and into the destemmer. Once the load was finished we headed inside to taste some of his wines. He broke out a log of local goat cheese and started pouring wine. What amazed me was while everything was going on with the harvest he still wanted to taste and let us hear his story. In the past, most Cab Franc’s I’ve tried have had at least some oak influence. Abel is completely against oak. Even their cellar is packed with bottles instead of barrels. He wants to reserve the fresh fruit notes that his grapes have and feels that oak will ruin the natural elements of his wine. After tasting several of his wines I can’t help but to agree with him. His wines have fresh red fruit notes with some tannin and my favorite, a peppery nose. The most interesting thing was when he brought out one of his wines from the early 90′s. It was still so fresh tasting and with a nuance of oak. He explained that the oak notes naturally occur in his wines after they have been aged for a while. The connection Abel and his family have with their wines, truly make you appreciate what you are drinking. They let the wines speak for themselves by practicing organic farming and using little outside influence.

Since it was harvest, the entire family and staff were all at the winery once the morning harvest was over. Food was being prepared inside by the women in the Abel’s family. They insisted we stay for lunch. It was an offer that I couldn’t refuse. Several courses were brought out starting with tiny star pasta and left over broth from last nights pot-au-feu. Next was a potato salad made from all local ingredients followed by a serving of lentils. Dishes kept coming including boeuf bourguignon, fried eggs, and loads of bread and cheese. I had no idea but a fried egg on top of lentils and a deep boeuf bourguignon was incredible. This amazing rustic meal went down great with all of their Bourgueil including an easy drinking rosé. For desert there was more cheese and a simple rice pudding which hit the spot. The conversations were great and everyone tried to speak English as much as possible. The entire staff and especially Abel are truly great people. They are very warm, caring and generous. Needless to say it was a meal I would never forget.

At Mike’s Wine Dive we are offering Nau Fréres by the glass for $8 and $40 by the bottle. It is definitely one of my favorite wines on our list and a must try if you haven’t had a chance to experience it.

Thanksgiving Wines

What to drink for Thanksgiving? There are so many wines available and and so many different foods at the table it can be difficult deciding what to bring to your Thanksgiving feast. Below is my go to list of wine recommendations for turkey day:

Riesling

The first bottle you open should be a Riesling. It’s refreshing and heavy on the palate. It will get your appetite wet for eating, if it isn’t already. For Thanksgiving I want a Riesling that is off dry. Bone dry and full blown sweet don’t fit the bill as much as an off dry one would. My general rule of thumb for choosing Riesling is the richer the food the higher alcohol the wine should be. So for lighter food look for German or Austrian Riesling. The richer food should be California or Australian Riesling. The most obvious pairings for Riesling would be fish or shellfish. Riesling doesn’t stop there. It goes well with mild poultry, pork, ham, duck, and cured meats. One of my favorites is Riesling with sweet potatoes. If the dish is too overpowering then Riesling can’t hang. I’d look for more stronger wines below.

Chardonnay

Chardonnay lends itself to many different styles of food and can be very versatile. It is great with mild poultry (turkey), shellfish, and even winter squash. Chardonnay has 2 main styles: oaked and unoaked. If the food is grilled or lightly smoked I would try to go for a more oaky style Chardonnay. Look for California or a French white Burgundy that’s oaked. For a roasted dish that tastes more clean I enjoy a crisp mineral driven Chardonnay. Chablis is definitely my main choice. Chablis is also perfect for taking away some of the richness you get with some of the heavy butter cream based sauces like gravy.

Viognier

Viognier might be the best white wine to bring to a holiday feast. It’s got good acidity and flavors like a Riesling but it also has that creamy texture you get with a Chardonnay.  A sweet ham or root vegetables work very well. As far as the turkey goes you can slow roast that sucker or deep fry it. It’s acidity will cut right through rich gravy as well. Viognier is at its best in Northern Rhone, France but for a truly American Thanksgiving I would go with a California or Australian version. One of my favorites is Copain Viognier from California.

Beaujolais

The strong acid and low tannin Gamay grape is what make me love Beaujolais for Thanksgiving feasts. However, not all Beaujolais are created equally. For a quick dose of info on Beaujolais read my piece The Other Red Burgundy. The nouveau and other lighter styles of Beaujolais do well with light food like salads and such. I would recommend you spend a little bit more and go with a Cru Beaujolais for Thanksgiving.  It can stand up to the more heartier dishes. Some of the Crus are more powerful than others but all will be a better option than your run of the mill Beaujolais. Feel free to put a slight chill on the wine because Beaujolais gravitates to a little chill. I’d aim for about 61F. Cru Beaujolais will go well with roasted poultry, hearty stews and corned beef.  Here is a list of the Cru Beaujolais Appelations: Saint-Amour, Juliénas, Chénas, Moulin-à-Vent, Fleurie, Chiroubles, Morgon, Régnié, Brouilly and Côte de Brouilly. More often than not you will see these appellations in big print on the bottle and not Beaujolais.

Pinot Noir

Is this the obvious choice? Ok it probably is but who doesn’t love a good Pinot? I feel like I’ve talked about Pinot a lot in my past posts so I’ll keep this short and sweet. Pinot goes well with almost anything. With so much food on the table you want something that can work with a lot of options. I usually stick with a new world Pinot from California or Australia for Thanksgiving. Although the earthier styles of Pinot from Burgundy and New Zealand do go well with game like pheasant or venison. It really depends on what’s being served. Either way you can’t go wrong with Pinot.

Blaufränkisch

Yes I had to throw in a sleeper. For those of you that aren’t familiar with Blaufränkisch (blouw-FRANN-keesh), it is a classic Austrian red grape that has acid and tannin. To me it is Pinot with a bite. It will go well with chicken, turkey, pork, and pasta. If you’re grilling anything then this will be able to stand up to it because of the tannins. It’s killer with grilled sausage. Last year I brought Blaufränkisch to Thanksgiving for the first time. It was a definite hit. I will definitely make that a tradition. The best part is the price. You can buy at least 2 bottles of Blaufränkisch for the price of 1 bottle of Pinot.

Well there you have it. Three whites and three reds. There are many others than will also work well with Thanksgiving but these are the ones that stand out most in my mind. I would love to hear what you recommend. Feel free to comment or message me on Facebook or Twitter. Have a wonderful and safe holiday. Cheers!

San Francisco

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I first visited San Francisco in January 2011. I was hooked and have been back a second time since before visiting Napa. It is definitely one of my all time favorite cities. The food culture there is so strong and within a short driving distance to wine country it’s hard to beat the pairing.

Upon arrival both trips, I went to the Swan Oyster Depot for lunch. This small seafood restaurant brings some of the best San Francisco has to offer in a tight little package. Recently it was featured in Anthony Bourdain’s show “The Layover”. Fresh crabs, oysters, clams and other various seafood cover the menu of this old school establishment. The sourdough bread with butter is addicting and washing it down with the locally brewed Anchor Steam beer will make you never want to leave until your stomach can’t get any fuller. Swan Oyster Depot has been around since 1912 and it is still going strong. I suggest getting there before the noon rush because seating is limited. If you have to wait a bit trust me it will be totally worth it.

Being in the wine industry there are 2 must visit wine bars in US; Terroir in NYC and RN74 in San Francisco. Both have massive wine lists that will make any wine connoisseurs jaw drop. RN74 is part of Michael Mina’s restaurant empire. Mina’s restaurants strive for excellence and they have never seem to disappoint me in all aspects of a restaurant. Famed Sommelier Rajat Parr is the man behind the award winning wine list. Wine is not the only game here because the food alone is worth a visit. With a French inspired menu, they put a modern twist to some classic dishes. The roasted marrow bones, cassoulet, and duck confit were right up my alley. If I lived in San Francisco RN74 would be my hangout spot.

With so many options in San Francisco I am just scratching the surface. Walk through Chinatown and you are in another world with a different cuisine, including Vietnamese pho (pictured right). Fisherman’s Wharf (pictured above) is another exciting area to visit. The Irish coffee at Buena Vista Cafe is not to be missed. The most unexpected and incredible meal I’ve had in San Francisco was at Kokkari. I am from Mediterranean descent and this well known Greek restaurant I knew I had to visit. My first taste of Greek wine was at Kokkari, and the duck grape leaves were fantastic. But the lamb, yes the freaking lamb practically brought me to my knees! This slowly braised lamb shank with orzo might be one of the most favorite dishes I’ve ever had. It was fork tender with perfectly cooked orzo and topped with a Greek cheese called Myzithra. Words cannot describe how delicious this was. After having several apps I forced myself to put this down because it would of been a crime to leave a single ounce in the plate. Needless to say a wheelchair would of been nice to have after I left Kokkari. Bedtime was near.

With so much to do and see in San Francisco I will keep coming back as much as possible. One final word: the sourdough bread there really is on another level. Eat it up!

Puerto Rico

Puerto Rico can be a magical place to visit. An island part of the United States that is anything but American. Upon arrival in the capital city San Juan you feel as if you have entered a different world. The language is Spanish, the music is lively, and the people are warm and generous. There is one main thing I was here for and that was the traditional food and beverage of this wonderful island.

Old San Juan is a large tourist area. Cruise ships are lined up every day flushing tourists through the city. That being said a lot of the restaurant food here is overrated and expensive. Street food is where the heart is. I saw numerous vendors lined up on streets. The goal was to find one with a long line and most of them locals. Finally I stumbled upon one. They were serving a tripleta sandwich which has ham, chicken, and beef. Four condiments were put on a large hoagie then the meat was added. This was the best sandwich I have EVER tasted. Juicy and loaded with favors. I was pumped and ready to explore more local favorites.

La Bombonera restaurant in Old San Juan has been around for a 80 plus years. They are known for their breakfast. Majorcas is their specialty. It is a breakfast sandwich topped with powdered sugar. I had the ham and cheese with a side of freshly squeezed orange juice. It was phenomenal. If you are in San Juan for just a day via cruise ship this is a great place to stop in and eat. Lunch is also served and most reviews I’ve read about this place are all positive.

Being in Old San Juan i wanted to try Raices restaurant. It was featured in Man Vs. Food on the Travel Channel and the food looked delicious. They are famous for the deep fried pork shop. It’s supposed to be a whole chop marinated in a sofrito then baked and finished in a deep fryer until crispy. I was disappointed. The marinade was unnoticeable and it tasted like a bland piece of pork. Not to mention it was the most expensive meal I would have all trip.

I am not a rum drinker but rum was my beverage of choice this trip. DonQ is the local favorite Puerto Rican rum producer and it is easy to taste why. Rarely exported, the oak aged DonQ Añejo is perfect for drinking on the rocks or with a splash of water. It’s a serious rum with tons of flavors like caramel, spice and cinnamon. If rum is too much for you go for a Medalla Light beer. It might be light but it’s packed with flavors and tastes completely unlike the standard American light beers. Wanna go foo foo? Look no farther than a piña colada. Just about every item that goes into a piña colada in Puerto Rico is made locally. It puts all other umbrella drinks to shame. Sadly you will be disappointed when you leave the island looking for one in the states.

If you want a variety of local favorites the Luquillo Kiosks fit the bill. It is about a 30 minute drive east of San Juan. Once you arrive you will find about 60 small shops/restaurants in a long narrow strip by the beach. Each shop has a speciality and a lot of the foods are displayed in front of you. Some are in English but everyone was very nice and helpful if I had any questions. Bring cash because you will want to jump around and most of them don’t take credit cards. You can get just about any local dish here and it’s definitely a spot for fried foods. My favorite dish at the kiosks was the Mofongo. Mofongo is plantains fried in pork fat, then mashed with some pork fat and stuffed with meat or seafood. I also enjoined the Morcilla which is a spicy blood sausage common in Puerto Rico. It all washed down good with the local Medalla Light.

My final and most memorable spot was the Lechoneras down the pork highway. This area has been highlighted by Travel Channel hosts Andrew Zimmerman and Anthony Bourdain. Lechon means roasted pig and that is the main dish that these roadside restaurants serve. It’s about an hour drive from San Juan but its totally worth it. You head South to the mountains towards an area called Cayey. The scenery on the way is beautiful. It really gave me a chance to see inland Puerto Rico. You know when you’ve arrived in a town called Guavate when you start seeing the Lechoneras lined up along the streets. This is a lively place for locals on the weekends with live music and all the pork you can get. The Lechonera we stopped at was called El Rancho Original. Whole pigs are being roasted on a rotating spit. You just walk up to the line and tell them you want some pieces of pork and they hack some off and serve it to you. My plate was full of various delicious pieces. The skin was especially my favorite part. As a side, pork spicy rice was served which made a perfect accompaniment to the meal. Out of every stop I made this is my most recommended.

Aside from the beaches and casinos there is plenty to do in Puerto Rico. Every location I went to visit was easy to navigate to with my AT&T iPhone and pretty much the entire island has coverage. If you plan of visiting and would like more info feel free add a comment or send me a message via Facebook or Twitter. I’d be happy to assist.

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